The area around Chiclayo is one of the most archaeologically important in the world, containing the fascinating sites of Sipán, Túcume and Sicán. The treasures found in the tombs of Sipán are now on display in nearby Lambayeque.

Sipán

In February 1987, Walter Alva, an archaeologist from Lambayeque received a call from the local police asking him to come and inspect some relics they had impounded from a huaquero, a grave robber. Rather than a few pieces of ceramics, as might have been expected, the relics turned out to be 33 pieces of Moche gold, silver, copper and seashell of amazing quality, indicating a royal tomb. Unfortunately, many of the pieces from this tomb have never been recovered. However, the importance of the treasures founds by the grave robbers alerted archaeologists to the importance of the site of Sipán. Further excavations at the site led to the discovery of the tomb of the Lord of Sipán, which turned out to be the most important archaeological discovery in Peru, and possibly in the world, since the 1950s. Further research revealed the entire court of a major Moche ruler, and the information provided by the discovery helped propel the importance of the Moche culture to a similar level to that of the Incas, Aztecs and Mayas. The Señor de Sipán dates from around 250AD.

Since the discovery of the Señor de Sipán in 1987 several other important tombs have been discovered at the site, one of which included treasures even more amazing than those of the Señor de Sipán. This tomb belonged to a Moche leader, now know as the Viejo Señor de Sipán, dating from around 150AD. It is probable that this was in fact one of the Señor de Sipán’s ancestors. Another important tomb discovered at the site is that of El Sacerdote, the priest, from about 350AD. Although of a lower rank than the Señor de Sipán and the Viejo Señor de Sipán, the tomb is still very important, and many treasures were discovered here, including a chalice. This was probably used for ceremonial purposes, possibly for drinking the blood of sacrifices.

An interesting aspect of many of the tombs found at Sipán is that the rulers were not buried alone, but with other humans, and even animals, who were sacrificed to accompany the ruler on his journey. The Señor de Sipán was buried with 8 others, including one child, and there are also 2 llamas. In most of the important tombs is a sacrificed guard with his feet cut off. This ensured that he did not run off and abandon his leader. However, in the tomb of the Viejo Señor de Sipán there is no guard and no coffin. It is likely that the more complex burials developed later in the Moche culture.

The site of Sipán was used by the Lambayeque culture after it was abandoned by the Moche people. However, its importance was far less significant, and a cemetery for common people has been discovered.

The site of Sipán, also known as Huaca Rayada, is obviously very important archaeologically, and was the administrative centre of the Moche culture in Lambayeque as well as the burial centre for its leaders. The 13 tombs excavated so far, and the further tombs that will no doubt be discovered, are helping to increase the knowledge of the Moche culture. There are replicas of how a few of the tombs were found, including the tomb of the Señor de Sipán and the Viejo Señor de Sipán, and it is also possible to see some of the tombs in excavation. The site is well worth visiting as long as you have a guided visit, giving an insight into the importance of the area and the background to the Moche culture.

There is a small museum at the site, which includes photos and reproductions of some of the treasures discovered at the site. There is also an interesting scale model of how the site must have been in the days of the Moche.

Señor de Sipán Treasures (Tumbas Reales Museum)

The treasures of the Lord of Sipan are one of the most important attractions in all of Peru and should not be missed by any visitor to the north of Peru. These are housed in the purpose built Museo de las Tumbas Reales de Sipán (Royal Tombs of Sipan Museum) nearby. The museums house many of the treasures found in the tombs at Sipán, including those of the Señor de Sipán, the Viejo Señor de Sipán and the Sacerdote. Each piece is clearly exhibited and well illuminated, allowing you to fully appreciate its intricate beauty. The collection of jewellery from the tombs at Sipán is one of the most important in the world and would be the star attraction in just about any museum worldwide.

The treasures of the Señor de Sipán contain an amazing collection from the tomb. The very beautiful pieces include fabulous coral breastplates, nose rings and adornments, gilded copper breastplates and gold necklaces with delicate designs. Some of the most amazing pieces are the gold earrings with intricate gold and turquoise figures. The stem that passes through the ears on these has a diameter of a couple of centimetres, which seems impossible. However, it must be remembered that Moche nobles had pierced ears from a very young age, and as they grew older, the size of the stem was increased, until the noble had sizeable holes in his earlobes, allowing him to support the weight of enormous earrings.

The articles found with the Viejo Señor de Sipán, are, if anything, even more amazing than those of the Señor de Sipán. The wonderful gilded copper crab-man is fabulous, and the gold spider necklace, with Moche faces supported by delicate spider legs, is a joy to behold. There are also treasures from the tomb of the Sacerdote, including the famous gold and silver peanut necklace.

Túcume

33km from Chiclayo is Túcume, one of the most important sites of the Lambayeque culture, which was later occupied by the Chimú and Inca cultures. The Lambayeque culture was active in the region between Piura and Chicama between 700AD until its conquest by the Chimú culture in 1375AD. In Túcume, there are 26 pyramids spread over 200 hectares, the largest of which, Huaca Larga, is claimed by some to be the largest adobe structure ever constructed, measuring 700m by 280m, and being 30m high. The site was founded around 1000AD in the Lambayeque classical period, and became the main centre for the culture when floods destroyed Sicán around 1100AD. As it was the main centre in the region, it was used as an administrative centre when it was conquered by the Chimú people around 1400 and again by the Incas in 1470.

There are many important temples in the complex, including the Templo de la Piedra Sagrada, a religious compound possibly used for human sacrifices, and the Huaca de las Balsas, where decorations similar to those at Chan Chán have been discovered.

The site is very impressive, although most of the huacas now resemble little more than giant sand dunes. However, climbing to the top of the mirador on the Cerro La Raya affords a wonderful view over the entire area, and imagining what the city must have been like is awe-inspiring. It is possible to walk round the entire site, and visit some of the sites that are under excavation. In the past, the site had been under investigation by a team led by the Norwegian archaeologist Thor Heyerdahl.

There is a small museum at the site, which includes a scale model of Túcume and an explanation of the excavations of the different huacas. There are also some ceramics and jewellery that were found at the site. Near the site is a small Algarobo forest that is good for bird watching.

Sicán (Batán Grande)

Sicán, also known as Batán Grande, was an important city for the Lambayeque culture, and many important tombs have been found here. The town was the main centre for the Lambayeque people from 700AD until it was largely destroyed by floods in 1100AD, when the people moved to Túcume. Many of the remains show signs of damage by fire, and it is likely that the inhabitants burnt down the city upon abandoning it. The site contains many huacas, and there are many tombs of important nobles. Many of these have, unfortunately, been looted, although the few pieces recovered and on display in the Museo Brüning, indicate the wealth of the culture. Many of the pieces in the Gold Museum in Lima, including the famous Golden Tumi, are from Sicán, and were bought from tomb robbers.

In 1991, Izumi Shimada, a Japanese archaeologist working at the site discovered an important, unlooted tomb of a Lambayeque leader, who he named the Señor de Sicán. In the tomb were many important gold, silver and copper pieces, including a fabulous gold facemask and a gold crown. An interesting aspect of the tomb was that the skeletons were facing west instead of east to the rising sun, as is found in almost all tombs in Peru. One possible explanation of this is that the bodies were looking towards the Pacific from where Naymlap came. The treasures of the Señor de Sicán have now been restored and are exhibited in the Museo Sicán in Ferreñafe.

Other attractions

In addition to the main sites usually visited, there are many other archaeological attractions in the Chiclayo area. One of the most important of these is Pampagrande, possibly the last Moche capital. There is little to see, however, apart from some sand dunes that used to be Moche buildings. The original base of the Lambayeque culture at Chotuna, near San José can be visited, although again there is little to see.

In addition to archaeological sites, the area around Chiclayo contains many interesting colonial and coastal towns that can be visited. These include Eten and Pimental, which have pretty beaches, although the latter is rather close to a smelly fishmeal factory. Santa Rosa is a pretty fishing village where the legendary Naymlap arrived. Monsefú is a town renown for its hats, blankets and ponchos, which many its inhabitants dedicate themselves to making. Tinajones has a reservoir with interesting wildlife.

The most interesting of the colonial towns is Zaña, a pretty town founded in 1563 that was considered one of the most opulent in its day. However, it was often ransacked by pirates and suffered from a flood in 1720. Today, the remains of many colonial churches can be seen. Mocupe is worth visiting for its festival of the Cruz de Chalpón in the first week of August, when thousands of pilgrims arrive in the town. Chongoyape is a small town with the important Cerro Mulato petroglyphs. Salas, Jayanca and Pacora are traditional towns where witchcraft is still practised.