Cusco Holidays
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About Cusco
Cusco is a beautiful colonial city with many wonderful churches and courtyards. However, the importance of the city was greatest before the arrival of the Spanish, when it was the capital of the Inca Empire – the most important city in an area stretching from Colombia to Argentina. In recent years the city has once again regained its important status, this time becoming the capital of Peru's tourism industry. However, even in this city throbbing with tourists, it is relatively easy to escape the crowds by walking up one of the quiet side streets.
There are several legends relating to the founding of Cusco and the Inca Empire. The most common is that Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo, the male and female founders of the Incas, were sent by the sun and moon gods to Lake Titicaca. From there, they began looking for the right place to found their kingdom. When they arrived at what is now Cusco, Manco Capac plunged his staff into the ground, revealing its fertility, and Cusco, ‘the navel of the world', was founded. It is likely that this legend has some basis in reality, as Quechua, the language of the Incas, was spoken by the Ccolla, or Quechua, people from near Lake Titicaca. These were responsible for the creation of the impressive funerary towers at Sillustani near Puno. It is therefore possible that the Incas originated from the Lake Titicaca area after the fall of the Tihuanaco Empire.
Monastery of Santo Domingo and Qorikancha
The most interesting, and important, building in Cusco is the colonial monastery of Santo Domingo, built on the foundations of Qorikancha (courtyard of gold), which was the most important religious site in the Inca Empire. Although the colonial monastery and church are interesting, it is the remains of the Inca buildings that are the main attraction. This was the location of the most important temples in all of the Inca Empire, which included the Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Moon, Temple of Thunder and Lightning, Temple of the Rainbow and temples to various stars. Originally, the temples were covered in gold and silver, and there were many jewels throughout the buildings. There was an enormous gold disc, representing the sun, which was used to reflect the rays of the sun into the Temple of the Sun. This must have been an incredible sight, especially as the sun reflected off all the golden surfaces that previously covered the walls. Most of the gold and silver objects were removed from the temples when the Spanish were collecting the ransom for Atahuallpa's release, and were later melted down, destroying the amazing pieces forever. However, it is said that the Incas in Cusco did not hand over the giant sun disk, which is to this day hidden away somewhere in Peru. In addition to all the temples, there was a ceremonial garden by Qorikancha. It is said that this contained representations of crops in gold and silver. Today, a silver cob of corn can be seen in the nearby museum.
Most of the Inca temples were completely destroyed by the Spaniards, with many of the stones used to build the monastery itself. However, several of the walls of some of the temples remain. These include some lesser temples on the left-hand side of the monastery when you enter. Despite their status as minor temples, the stonework is amazing. The remains of the temples on the right-hand side of the church are supposedly those of the Temple of the Moon and the Temple of Thunder and Lightning. The stonework in these temples is outstanding, and this is probably the best example of Inca stonework still in existence. The joins of the stones are so perfect that you can run your hand over the unions and not feel any change. Unfortunately, there are no remains of the Temple of the Sun, the most important building in any Inca complex.
There is a small site museum under the park by Qorikancha. This houses a rather dull collection of ceramics, although the museum is rescued by an interesting collection of replica gold figures and a wonderful silver cob of corn, originally in the ceremonial garden of Qorikancha. There are also a couple of good scale models of the original Qorikancha temple.
Sacsayhuaman
The best known of all the archaeological sites near Cusco, Sacsayhuaman is also the most interesting. The ruins stand on a hill to the north of Cusco, which offers a splendid view over the city. The Cristo Blanco (White Christ) is next to Sacsayhuaman, and was a gift from the Palestine Arabs to the people of Cusco. Sacsayhuaman is generally referred to as a fortress, and although it was used to attack the Spanish in Manco Inca's rebellion, it is unlikely that this was its original, or main, function. It is more likely to have been a ceremonial centre, possibly the Royal House of the Sun, and there were places of devotion to the moon, lightning and the stars.
The site is still awe-inspiring, despite being destroyed and plundered as a quarry by the Spanish conquistadors. The most impressive elements are the enormous zigzag walls that defended the southern part of the site. Each of these three walls stretch for 300m and is almost 10m tall. The stones in the walls are incredible, the largest of which weigh over 300 tonnes. Nevertheless, they are fitted with usual Inca perfection reserved for important structures and these walls are some of the most impressive structures in all of Peru. Atop of the hill defended by these huge walls there used to stand three huge towers, which were used in the defence of Sacsayhuaman by Manco Inca in 1536. Unfortunately, all that can now be seen are the bases of the towers, as the structures themselves were destroyed by the Spanish when they took the site after defeating the Incas.
Opposite the giant walls is a hill with some impressive carvings in the rock. This includes the so-called Inca's Throne: seat-like structures overlooking the site. Behind this hill are some natural slides in the rock, and a number of other Inca structures. These include a large, circular reservoir, now empty, and the ‘chincanas': tunnels in the rock. If entering these tunnels be careful as they are very dark and it is not unknown for thieves to lurk. These tunnels form part of a reputedly enormous series that originally linked Sacsayhuaman to Qorikancha in Cusco, as well as many other tunnels throughout the Inca Empire. It is said that when the Incas discovered that the Spanish had killed Atahuallpa, they hid many treasures in these tunnels, which were blocked up. There are rumours of people who have entered the chincanas looking for treasure, only never to reappear.
The exact meaning of the name Sacsayhuaman is unclear. The Cusqueñan historian Luis Pardo claims that the name comes from the Quechua words Saqsay and Waman, meaning satiated falcon. Santiago Astete, a specialist in Quechua, claims that the name comes from the words Saqsa and Uma, meaning speckled head. This version fits in with the theory that Cusco was designed by Pachacuteq in the form of a Puma, and that Sacsayhuaman was its head. The actual builder of Sacsayhuaman is unclear. Some attribute it to the great Inca leader Pachacuteq. Others think that it was his son, Tupac Yupanqui, who realised the structure, following his father's plans. The sheer size of the site makes it unlikely that the site was the work of only one Inca, and it was probably still being built during the period of Huayna Capac, the last Inca before the civil war between his sons Huáscar and Atahuallpa. It appears that Sacsayhuaman was never completed, even after 20,000 men had worked on the site for 50 years.
The site was scene to possibly the most famous battle between the Incas and the Spanish. Manco Inca, the Inca leader the conquistadors had installed after executing Atahuallpa, realised that the situation was untenable and he rejected the position he had been given in order to lead an Inca army against the Spanish. The Inca army took the site of Sacsayhuaman and began to attack the city of Cusco and the Spanish inside, setting fire to the thatched roofs by raining down fiery stones on the city. The Spanish, led by Francisco Pizarro's brother, Juan, escaped from the city and attacked Sacsayhuaman. Although Juan Pizarro was killed in the attack, the Spanish managed to scale the giant walls of the fortress with ladders and attack the towers. The battle was very violent, with heavy casualties on both sides. It is said that an Inca general, Cahuide, fought particularly bravely, defending the last tower before the Spanish captured it. Rather than be captured himself, he leapt from the tower to his death.
After the Spanish captured Sacsayhuaman, the Incas retreated to the jungle and were all but defeated. The Spanish then used Sacsayhuaman as a prison in the struggle for Peruvian dominance between the Pizarro and Almagro factions. It was also the place where the revolutionary Tupac Amaru II was captured, before being executed in Cusco's Plaza de Armas.
Archaeological Sites near Cusco
There are approximately 500 archaeological sites in the area directly outside of Cusco. Many of these are well known and receive many visitors. However, many of the lesser-known ruins receive virtually no visitors. Besides Sacsayhuaman, the main sites of interest are Qenko, Puca Pucara and Tambo Machay, which are easy to reach from the city.
Qenko
The site of Qenko contains the most impressive carved rock in the Cusco area. This giant rock has been etched away to create many shrines. There are many zigzag channels on the top of the rock, probably used for pouring sacrificial chicha. (Qenko means zigzag.) There are also the carvings of several animals, including a puma and a condor, although they are rather difficult to make out. Inside the rock there are a number of caves and passageways, carved by the Incas. These were probably used for ceremonial purposes, and an altar is clearly visible, as are niches. One of the entrances to the cave is shaped like a llama's head.
Puca Pucara
This small site was probably a tambo, or resting place, for travellers. Although Puca Pucara means red fortress, the site does not appear to have any defensive purpose. The buildings are interesting, with fine stonework in many places.
Tambo Machay
This very beautiful site was probably a temple dedicated to water. There are some very fine water channels and waterfalls at the ruins, and the stonework is very fine.
Temple of the Moon (Salumpunku)
This temple consists of two caves in a hill. There are cracks in the rock above the caves, letting sunlight, and moonlight, enter. The caves have altars and niches inside. One of the caves has carvings of a snake and a puma at the entrance.
Museums
Possibly the best museum in Cusco is the Museum of Pre-Colombian Art. This contains many pieces from the Larco Herrera collection in Lima, focusing on the Inca and highland regions of Peru, with the pieces dating from 1250BC to 1532AD.
The Machu Picchu Museum, housed in the Casa Concha, contains pieces from Machu Picchu that had been moved by Hiram Bingham to Yale University upon the site’s initial discovery. These were returned to Peru in 2011 and the museum now displays 366 pieces. There are interesting photos and videos of Machu Picchu, although the artefacts are mostly of archaeological interest.
The Museo Inka also contains a fine archaeological collection from all over Peru. There is a very good section on the pre-Inca cultures in the Lake Titicaca and Cusco areas, and it has some exquisite Wari turquoise mini-sculptures found at Pikillaqta. The section on the Inca culture is very good, and there are some wonderful photos of Machu Picchu when it was first rediscovered.
The Museo Histórico Regional contains an interesting collection of Inca and pre-Inca ceramics, as well the world's most complete Glyptodonte skeleton. The museum is in the house where the Inca chronicler Garcilaso de la Vega was born, and the museum contains interesting information on his life.