Hiram Bingham & the rediscovery of Machu Picchu
Hiram Bingham, a professor of Latin American history from the University of Yale, became interested in the Inca culture on a trip to Peru in 1908. When he returned to the country in 1911 he was determined to discover the site of Vilcabamba, the last refuge of the Incas when fleeing from the Spanish. The North American rector of the university in Cusco told Bingham about rumours of some unexplored ruins down the Urubamba Valley. Bingham travelled down the valley by mule, camping at Mandor Pampa on July 23, where he met Melchor Arteaga, who agreed to guide him from the valley up to the ruins. There was no path and the thick jungle vegetation made for a very tough climb, and on the morning of July 24 the weather was not good. However, Bingham agreed to pay Arteaga the sum of one silver dollar to accompany him, and later that morning Bingham emerged onto the ruins. He spent most of that day there, before returning to the valley and then to Cusco.
Bingham recognised the importance of the site and decided that this had to be the city of Vilcabamba for which he was searching. He sent an expedition to Machu Picchu later that year to clear part of the ruins, and returned himself the following year, clearing much of the site and taking many photos. Some of these were published in the National Geographic in 1913, ensuring the worldwide fame of both Machu Picchu and Hiram Bingham, who went on to become a US Senator. Although it is clear that Hiram Bingham was not the first person to visit Machu Picchu since its abandonment by the Incas, he did recognise its importance and brought it to the world's attention. Therefore, he is rightfully credited as its discoverer.
Although Bingham claimed that Machu Picchu was the city of Vilcabamba, it is now accepted that the site at Espiritu Pampa was the jungle city occupied by the Incas when fighting the Spanish. Ironically, Bingham came across the ruins at Espiritu Pampa on the same expedition on which he discovered Machu Picchu, and dismissed them as minor—nevertheless, the idea of Machu Picchu as Vilcabamba endured for many decades after its discovery.
It is now generally accepted that Machu Picchu was an important ceremonial site, and possibly also an important agricultural centre. There is speculation that Machu Picchu was used to grow a special high-altitude variety of coca leaf for use in religious ceremonies, although such a variety does not exist anymore, and there is no evidence that the site was used for this.
Getting to Machu Picchu
There are several ways to get to Machu Picchu, each one with different benefits and costs. You can choose to spend one day visiting the ruins and return to Cusco in the evening, walk for four days on the classic Inca Trail or lesser-known Salkantay Trail, or opt for the Short Inca Trail which involves just one day of hiking but still lets you arrive at Machu Picchu with a sense of accomplishment. You can add various excursions and upgrades to your trip, such as the possibility to upgrade to a more elegant train, or hike one of the two different mountains and return to the site for a second day.
Click here to read our blog about the options you have for visiting Machu Picchu.
Machu Picchu Tickets
The ticketing and shuttle bus system for Machu Picchu is complex given that millions of visitors come every year, so the procedure has to be as slick as possible to avoid enormous queues. Your ticket for Machu Picchu will have an entry time (hourly from 6am to 2pm) which shows the earliest time you can enter the site, although you can enter any time after this. Officially, once you enter the site you are not allowed to leave and come back, and you must also enter with your guide. If you buy a second entrance ticket for the following day, you will be allowed to enter the site without a guide, but you will need to show your ticket from the first day.
Returning to Machu Picchu for a second day is a popular option, as it allows you to explore the lost city of the Incas and discover the beautiful surrounding area at a relaxed pace. If you choose this option, your ticket will be bought at the earliest time possible (6 am) although these sell out quickly, so it is sometimes necessary to buy a ticket with a later entrance time.
The Ruins
Although there is much to see around Machu Picchu, the most important temples and structures all lie in a relatively small area (about 200m by 400m) in front of Huayna Picchu, the sugarloaf mountain directly behind the ruins. It is therefore possible to explore the main areas of the site in under two hours. However, to explore the ruins fully, and to visit the more remote parts of the site, a full day or longer is required. The different areas of Machu Picchu preserve the names given to them by Hiram Bingham, despite these being wildly inaccurate in many cases.
Entering the site, you pass vast tracts of agricultural terracing, which was probably used for the production of food as well as maize for ceremonial chicha. Passing the terracing, there is a very fine fountain on the left. Next to this is the curved Temple of the Sun, where the finest stonework in the ruins is found. This temple would have been used for observing the sun, and the window in the eastern face of the temple aligns perfectly with the rising sun at the winter solstice. Next to this is a very fine building called The Princess's Palace, although given its proximity to the Temple of the Sun it is far more likely that this was the residence of an important priest.
Climbing the stairs next to the Temple of the Sun brings you to the quarry, where much of the stone for the constructions was obtained. Next to the quarry is the Temple of the Three Windows, where there are indeed three temples facing east. It is likely this temple was related to the three worlds of the Incas, Hanan Pacha, the world of above (representing the gods of the sun, moon and stars); Kay Pacha, this world (representing this life); and Uqhu Pacha, the world of below (representing death). The chakana, the Andean cross, with three levels, was a symbol used to represent the three worlds. Next to one of the windows is a stone half of a chakana. At the winter solstice, the shadow formed by this stone completes the cross.
Climbing up from the Temple of the Three Windows brings you to the highest point of the ruins, the Intihuatana, which literally means the hitching post of the sun. This was used by the Incas to ‘tie' the sun to the earth, and was used to measure the position on the sun in relation to the earth, and was useful for giving information on when the seasons changed, necessary for agriculture. Intihuatanas were found at the majority of important Inca sites, although the Spanish destroyed or damaged almost all of them. The Intihuatana at Machu Picchu is particularly important, as it was the only one not discovered by the Spanish. However, despite surviving the Spanish conquest, the Intihuatana has not survived capitalism as well. In 2000, while filming a Cusqueña beer commercial, the crane with the cameraman fell onto the stone, chipping one of the corners of the Intihuatana. Although the company was fined heavily, the stone is permanently damaged.
The Intihuatana works by casting shadows that line up in different positions at different times of the year. The winter solstice in June was the most important time, as the sun fell directly onto the stone. The summer solstice in December was far less important for the Incas, especially here, as the weather was almost invariably cloudy, so the sun's position was impossible to measure. An interesting aspect to note about the Intihuatana at Machu Picchu is that it is not completely vertical but tilts 13 degrees to the north. This is the exact latitude of Machu Picchu south of the equator.
Across the main plaza is a group of simpler buildings that probably served as a general residential area. To the south of this is the area known as the Temple of the Condor, although Bingham called this the Prison, due to some rocks which looked as if they were used to tie up prisoners. However, it is known that the Incas did not have prisons, as death was the punishment for most transgressions. This was almost certainly a temple to the condor, and a carving of the head of a condor can be seen on the ground, with the rocks in the temple forming the outstretched wings of the bird.
Huayna Picchu and Temple of the Moon
Apart from the main body of the ruins, there are several areas in Machu Picchu worth seeing, and visiting these areas is a good way of getting away from the majority of the crowds. The most commonly visited of these is the peak of Huayna Picchu, the sugarloaf mountain directly behind the open plaza. At first sight it would appear to be impossible to climb this mountain, and the terracing visible near its summit seems an impossible feat. However, there is a well-defined path and the walk to the top takes around forty minutes to one hour and offers a superb alternate view of the ruins. Climbing Huayna Picchu involves very steep drops and ladders up cliff faces.
Part of the way up the climb to Huayna Picchu, a trail forks off to the left. If you follow this trail for about 1½ to 2 hours, along a relatively narrow ledge, you come to the far side of the mountain. Here, there is a fine building, called the Temple of the Moon, although it is unlikely it had anything to do with observing the moon.
The Peruvian National Institute of Culture limits the number of people able to climb Huayna Picchu or visit the Temple of the Moon to 400 per day and permits must be bought in advance.
Machu Picchu Mountain
Machu Picchu Mountain is located to the south-west of Machu Picchu citadel, overlooking the Inca site and Huayna Picchu. Although it is over twice the size of Huayna Picchu, its more gradual assent and wide, well-marked pathways make it a slightly easier hiking option. A round trip will take around 4 hours but it is definitely worth the effort. The trail to the top of the mountain takes you up ancient stone steps crafted by the Incas, with beautiful vistas of the Urubamba River, the surrounding mountain scenery and spectacular aerial views of the famous Inca ruins. There are a restricted number of permits to enter Machu Picchu Mountain so it is recommended these are purchased in advance.
Sun Gate
A common side-trip from the main ruins is up to the Intipunku, the sun gate, about 30 - 40 minutes from the main ruins. This is where the Inca Trail emerges, offering hikers their first view of Machu Picchu. The small ruins themselves are not very interesting, but the view is superb.
Inca Drawbridge
There is also a trail that leads behind the mountain to the Inca Drawbridge. Here, the path becomes very narrow with a substantial drop to your side. The drawbridge itself is a gap in the path that the Incas left to prevent unwanted visitors crossing. The gap was bridged by logs that could be easily withdrawn.
Machu Picchu Town
The small town of Aguas Calientes sits in the valley below the Machu Picchu ruins. The town is located in an incredibly beautiful area, surrounded by jungle-covered mountains and next to the wonderful Urubamba River. The town itself is not particularly attractive, although it is quite interesting, mainly due to the railway line. There are no cars in the town, apart from the buses to shuttle visitors up to the ruins, and so the ‘main street', as it were, is in fact the railway line. People wander up and down the track, jumping across the platform of the station, and there are even a couple of fruit sellers next to the line. When a train comes, the bustle on the platform, which is the main street's pavement, is wonderful. If it were not for tourism, the whole place could almost be out of a Gabriel García Márquez novel. The town also has one main attraction in itself, the thermal baths. These, located at the top of the hill, are open pools with a stunning view. Many walkers like to come here and rest their weary bones after the Inca Trail. The hot waters are reputedly medicinal. Walking up past the hot baths there is a very pretty waterfall.
The ruins of Machu Picchu are the reason visitors come here, and most people spend only one night in the town, or even visit on a day trip from Cusco. However, the whole area is very beautiful, and there are many wonderful walks in the area passing many waterfalls are streams. There is also some good wildlife that can be seen, with many birds, including the cock-of-the-rock, and many, many orchids. The Mandor Waterfall can be reached in a couple of hours, and it is also possible to climb to the top of Putucusi, the peak opposite Machu Picchu on the other side of the Urubamba River.
The town is the location of most of the hotels in the area (only the Hotel Sanctuary Lodge is located next to the ruins themselves). To get to the ruins from the town there is a 20 minute shuttle bus ride. This leaves approximately every 20 minutes from 5.30am, so you can be in the ruins for when they open. The last bus back down from the ruins leaves at around 5.30pm.